I'm labeling this Start to Fermenter because the beer is still fermenting and I have not yet bottled. So, I'll walk you through what I did start to finish and you can see my successes and failures (though that could largely depend on the end product...).
First, I set out my Porter recipe and mash extract kit. This picture is incomplete because I had already started the next step when I took the picture. I'll get to that. What you see is two bags of dry ground malt extract (added to the boil), pellet hops, one of priming sugar (used in bottling) and one of maltodextrin (to add body), nitrogen vacuum packaged yeast, and some other equipment (auto-siphon, not open yet, crown bottle caps, spout, hydrometer tube, bottling device, instructions and under the priming sugar is a fermometer which you probably cannot see well).
Next I took a pot, filled it with a gallon of warm water, about 120 degrees (hottest my faucet would go) and put C-Brite solution in to create a sterilization solution. I put my tools that I would need sterilized in this (stainless steel spoon, hydrometer, infuser bag and measuring cup for yeast). I also used a rag to wipe down everything that I would need sterilized (kettle, fermenter and strainer).
You can see in this picture a nice bottle of Shipyard Export, my sterilizing pot (on the right) and the malt extract soaking (in the left pot, this was the next step I was referring to earlier).
First thing was to get 2.5 gallons of water up to 150 degrees F, then added the specialty grains using the infuser bag for 15 minutes to get the dark color and smoky flavor.
After the 15 minutes I removed the infuser and raised the water temp to a boil. I think it was at this point I had the pot covered because a book I read told me to, but I wasn't watching carefully enough for boil overs and, yes, I had a boil over. Minimal damage though, I hope. I was under the impression that boil overs only occurr while adding the hops, well learned that lesson. Cleaned that up and when the water was at a boil I added all the malt extract and dry malts while off of the heat with help from my wonderful wife, stirring as I added. Then 45 minutes of boiling, stirring occasionally so the syrup wouldn't stick to the bottom (it did a little in the end where the burners were).
Once the 45 minutes was up I turned off the heat and added the pelletized hops. I then covered my nice 5 gallon stainless steel Polar War pot and put it in the bath to cool the wort down to 75 degrees F. I had to keep draining and adding cold water and stirring because the water around the pot would cool and the whole tub would warm up.
I also added a couple ice packs in for good measure, the faster the wort cools the better, and slightly vented the top at first. The ice packs melted pretty quick, but I did manage to cool the wort in 45 minutes to an hour, so that is decent. This is the step where the wort needs to be completely sterile and infections are most likely to occur I'm told so hopefully I didn't do something stupid. After cooling to just 75 degrees F (I had trouble waiting for it to get lower I admit) I pitched the yeast. To prepare the dry yeast I put it in 1/3 cup of 100 degree F temperature to help it get started. After 15 minutes I stirred the yeast and then pitched it immediately into the cooled wort. Final step of fermentation was adding the wort into the fermenter. I had already filled the fermenter with 2.5 gallons of cool water to make up the rest of the 5 gallon batch.
Shutting the fermenter bucket posed one problem, when I put the airlock on the o-ring popped off into the wort and I had to go fishing with my sterilized arm for the rubber o-ring. Another misstep that hopefully won't hurt my beer with infection. The little black strip on the bucket above "Select Ingredients" is the Fermometer. It's a really cool thermometer that sticks to the bucket and tells me the temperature of the room. Just about 72 degrees, we keep our house at 71, which is fine for ales though on the upper side of fine. Bubbles started coming out the airlock rapidly after less than 12 hours it seems and it has slowed to 2-3 a minute at this point. So, either my beer will be at it's final gravity in a day or two or the yeast isn't doing its job. I may be jumping to conclusions. I also know how to take a hydrometer reading now. I originally tried after cooling the wort, but I couldn't figure out how to use it and just gave up. That reminds me of another potential flaw, the wort we removed with a (hopefully) sterile jar was returned to the fermenter (which is a no no).
Oh well, here's to drinking beer in 3-4 weeks. Will finish this when I can take you from Fermenter to Drinking!